While you’re homing, if in doubt, always have your finger on the power switch to potentially kill it before it crashes into the print and rips it from the platform. If it’s bigger, you need to make sure that there is enough clearance to not crash into the part. If your part is small and your printer usually homes at the edge of the bed, it’s easy, and you can use the normal homing routine. For this, and in general, for resuming a print to work, we need to re-home the printer because we usually lose the absolute position once we stop printing. We’ll move the nozzle right to the point where it touches the last layer and read the height from the screen. We’ll use the 3D printer as a makeshift CMM or Coordinate-Measuring Machine. The last method is great if you don’t have any equipment to precisely measure the height or no features on the print that you can use to determine where it exactly failed. Step 2C: Using your 3D printer as a Coordinate-Measuring Machine (CMM)
If your model is already loose or you’re not able to recover your print like I’ll show you, there is still the possibility to measure the height you were able to print, enter your slicer of choice, cut off as much of the part as you’ve already printed, or just move it in the z-direction by that amount. Fallback Solution: Only re-print missing parts The highest priority is that you keep your print attached to the print bed, and if you have a removable print sheet, then also don’t move it in any way because otherwise, we won’t be able to resume the print at the correct location. In your case, you could also run out of power, encounter heat creep, have a knot in your filament, or even run out of filament without a material sensor. Maybe even make a print fail on purpose and try to recover it with these methods before this happens with a precious 3-day print! Let me know in the comments if you ever recovered a failed print and how you were able to do it! My print failed because I had a small piece of metal in my recycled filament that at some point blocked the nozzle. I was easily able to continue mine with some simple G-Code trickery and thought this is actually an essential skill I’d like to teach you. This is precisely what happened to me a bunch of weeks ago while filming my filament recycling video. I’m quite sure that almost anyone who owns a 3D printer already had a long print fail at some point just because no material somehow got extruded anymore.
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